Thursday, 23 June 2016

Llanthony Priory - landscape perception survey


As part of my PhD research I am carrying out a survey into present day perceptions of the impact of Llanthony Priory on the surrounding historic landscape of the Vale of Ewyas/ Llanthony Valley in the Black Mountains. 

If you know the area and would be willing to partipate in the survey then you can complete it on line below.


Create your own user feedback survey

Further information on my PhD research can be found here.


Saturday, 21 May 2016

Field research

One of the attractions of researching landscape history is the opportunity to combine a range of sources of evidence: direct investigation in the field, archival documents, maps, aerial photography and satellite imagery, and the testimony of people both in the past and the present through their remembered experiences, art, stories and perceptions. When studying a largely agricultural landscape a rich coming together of all of these elements can be found in the seemingly prosaic study of the names given to individual fields and enclosures by those who have worked the land. 

This is of particular current interest to me as I am working through the tithe maps for one of my PhD case study areas, the cluster of medieval manors on the edge of the Black Mountains over which Llanthony Priory had lordship from the early twelfth century until its dissolution in the mid-sixteenth century. The production of tithe maps for most parishes and townships across England and Wales was a result of the Tithe Commutation Act of 1836 which sought to rationale the archaic system by which communities had to provide their local church with a tenth, a tithe, of their agricultural produce and related resources through the replacement of this ancient practise with its roots in the Anglo-Saxon period with a cash payment. In order to implement this change the Herculean task of establishing who owned and farmed what land had to be carried out so that the new payments in cash could be calculated, and thus an accurately surveyed map and accompanying apportionment schedule recording land-use, who owned what and who occupied which farmsteads down to every last field, acre, perch and rood was produced for each parish over the following twenty years or so. These magical remnants of typically Victorian thoroughness and efficiency provide a latter day 'Domesday Book' snapshot of the agricultural landscape in the mid nineteenth century. A rich historical record that acts as an invaluable bridge between what we know about the 'in living memory' changes in the landscape over the last hundred years or so and the more dimly lit centuries that preceded the upheavals of the later nineteenth century.


Section of the tithe map for the parish of Upper Cwmyoy (showing Llanthony Priory), produced in 1852 (courtesy of http://cynefin.archiveswales.org.uk)
As they proceeded around each parish the tithe commissioners undertaking this exercise not only allocated a number to each field they mapped but also enquired of and recorded any names by which they were locally known, in order to reduce any ambiguity or confusion when the maps and schedules were examined by the farmers and land-owners of the parish. To the twenty-first century observer it is these field names that particularly help to bring the landscape of the time alive; though with some caveats: firstly not all fields had a name recorded (either because there was no such name, it may have been forgotten by or not be known to the current occupier or perhaps simply not followed up as the deadline for completing the survey loomed); and so, for some parishes, this data-set can be frustratingly incomplete. A more mundane characteristic of many field names is that they are often, well, rather mundane; for the very good reason that farmers did not allocate names to fields for the benefit of excitable landscape researchers and local historians, they did so to aid everyday working, communication and planning. Hence the proliferation of 'Big meadow', 'Field above the barn', 'Four acre field', 'Little croft' and many other similarly descriptive but rather uninspiring monikers. However, amongst this functionality can be found hidden gems that enrich our understanding of land management, landscape change, the vernacular lexicon of place words and terms and sometimes provide clues to the lost history of a particular patch of land.


Section of the tithe apportionment for the parish of Upper Cwmyoy (courtesy of http://cynefin.archiveswales.org.uk)
In my own research area there are many fields with a name but no number and no shortage of 'Upper meadow's, 'Lower orchard's, 'Big wood pasture's and the like. However, I have also found many leads to help provide a clearer picture of how the landscape has developed, with the added twist/ frustration that, hard on the border between England and Wales, some names are 'standard' English, some use Herefordshire dialect words, some are 'Gwentian' Welsh (a largely lost variation of Welsh from the south-east border area of the country), some a hybrid whilst others have morphed into strange corruptions of their original meaning, often through mishearing or incorrect transcribing on the part of those recording the information struggling to understand the mumbled or heavily accented oral testimony of the local farm workers.


'The Mote' field, Trefeddw farm.
This exercise has enabled my inner landscape detective to follow multiple pathways. The strange sounding name 'Poorcas' (or variations of) proliferates, mostly attached to large enclosures on the higher valley sides, and led to much initial head-scratching. A possible derivation is from the Welsh words por meaning pasture and cae for field: a finely-grained venacular descriptor for this topographically specific enclosure type. Other names are helping in the task of tracing the landscape of earlier times. For instance, within a field called 'The Mote' (pictured above) lies what remains of a motte and bailey fortification rising out of the fertile red earth, a remnant of the westward advance of Anglo-Norman control in this borderland region during the eleventh century which may be the foci of the medieval manor of Redcastle, now lost as a place name in local memory. A mile or so up the Vale of Ewyas lies the hamlet of Cwmyoy and within the cool stone of its quiet church can be found an impressively intact medieval cross with a carving of Christ still standing out in clear relief (pictured above). Local lore has it that this artifact was dug up from a local field over a hundred years ago. A few minutes walk from the church lies 'Cross field' (pictured below), under the turf of which the cross was perhaps hurriedly buried before the iconoclasts of the Reformation could bring their hammers to it, its likely original location further uphill at the cross roads of 'Groes Llwyd' (holy cross).    

'Cross field' occupying the rising ground below the hillside with the church of Cwmyoy behind the trees to the left.
On a more utilitarian note, a number of mills are recorded for Llanthony Priory's medieval manors in the area. The built remains of a number of later mills may occupy the location of an earlier manifestation, however the tithe maps provide further possible sites at 'Cae hen felin' (old mill field), 'Cae pandy' (fulling mill field) and 'Old mill meadow' that, when visited, provide field evidence of probable use as a mill; activity in the landscape long forgotten by the time the first edition Ordnance Survey map for the area, which makes no reference to any of these sites, was produced. Field names can also be used to help to piece together the routes through which people and livestock moved through the landscape before the modern metalled road network developed. Names such as 'Cae Rewen' (from rhiw meaning steep road field), 'Field above the road', and 'Whiels' (from heol meaning road) hint at the previous importance of now backwater field paths and tracks. One such holloway track, now disused, leads up to the common grazing land of the higher slopes of Hatterall Hill from a large field called 'Bugley meadow' (pictured below), a pleasant but incongruous sounding name until it is realised that this is probably a corruption of the old Welsh word for shepherd, bugail. This meadow, which visitors to Llanthony's ruins drive right past and also holds the annual Llanthony and District Show, contains an earthwork platform that may have been the site of the Priory's sheepcote for holding its flocks when they were brought down from their upland summer grazing. As for 'Caden will', 'Pic', 'Ropine' and 'Sole figin', their meaning remains mysterious; conversations with local farmers may illuminate some, but others are no doubt lost to history. 

'Bugley meadow', Court Farm, Llanthony
A listing of some of the more interesting or distinctive field name elements in the Llanthony area can be found in the table at the end of this piece (with some meanings still to be uncovered: if anyone can shed any light on these then please let me know).

Original tithe maps and apportionments are generally held at county and national archives and many are now digitised, with all for Wales available on the Archives Wales website.  

A particularly useful resource in the study of field names generally is provided by, the now out of print, English Field Names: A Dictionary by John Field (who else!). The book not only collects the many regional words for different types of enclosure but also demonstrates the more esoteric and playful side of naming different plots of agricultural land: 'Babylon' - remote land beyond the river; 'Chemistry' - land on which artificial fertilisers were used; 'Cocked hat' - land shaped like a tricorne hat; 'Lazy lands' - a derogatory term for unproductive land; 'Thousand Acre' - ironic term for small field; 'Unthank Bottom' - land occupied by squatters; and hundreds more such inventive names conjured by our clever but largely illiterate forebears, who knew the land around them literally by name. 


Field name element
Bach
Meaning
Little
Language
Welsh
Bank/ banky/ banc Slope English/ Welsh
Berrion/ errion/ errewan Possibly from y berllan = orchard Welsh
Beach Beach trees English
Beak Land reclaimed for ploughing English
Brake Waste covered in brushwood English
Brink Possibly from bryn = hill Welsh
Bagley/ bugley From Bugail = shepherd Welsh
Bushy Land covered in bushes English
Caden will ? ?
Cae Field Welsh
Caer Wall (or cae'r = field of the) Welsh
Canol/ cenol Middle Welsh
Carn Crooked or stony hillock Welsh
Cellan Possibly from celyn = holly Welsh
Chwarel  Quarry Welsh
Coed Wood Welsh
Common Common land English
Cover Overgrown field for game English
Croft/ crofty Small enclosure near house English
Crooked Crooked English
Cross Cross English
Crow Crow English
Cwm Valley Welsh
Cwrgy  Cwr = edge or cwar = quarry Welsh
Darren Rocky cliff Welsh
David Possibly from dafad = sheep Welsh?
Delyn From telyn = harp Welsh
Dingle Deep wooded hollow English
Dol/ dole/ dolu/ dolau Meadow Welsh
Draining Well drained English
Duelt  Possibly from ddu = black, dark + allt = woody cliff Welsh
Errion/ errewen/ errule/ erewin Possibly from y rhiw = steep path, hillside or slope Welsh
Farthing Fourth part English
Fawr/ vawr Great Welsh
ffynon/ ffenno Spring or well Welsh
Fine Possibly from ffynon = spring or well Welsh?
Fierben? ? ?
Flat Flat English
Garrivel  Possibly from chwarel = quarry Welsh
Garw/ Gwrw Rough Welsh
Glas Notably green or marshy Welsh
Glwydd  Bank or ditch Welsh
Gorgy ? ?
Grazing Grazing English
Green Notably green or marshy English
Grone Possibly from gronyn = grain Welsh
Gros Possibly from groes = cross Welsh
Gruffdupin ? ?
Gunters Local personal name Welsh
Gwillen/ guillen Possibly from Gwillim personal name Welsh
Gwyn White Welsh
Holly/ Holleys Holly tree English
Horse Land on which horses are kept English
Horsley Possibly land on which horses are kept English?
Isha/ Isser Lower Welsh
Kiln Lime kiln English
Leak ? English
Lluaddu Possibly from lludw = ash Welsh
Llwyd Brown or grey Welsh
Loney Possibly from llwyn = grove Welsh?
Loom ? ?
Maes Meadow, field or ploughed land Welsh
Markel Possibly from mark = boundary ?
Mawr Big, great or large Welsh
Mellin From melin = mill Welsh
Nant Stream Welsh
Narrow Narrow strip of land English
New ground  Land newly cultivated or enclosed English
Newydd  New Welsh
Oak Oak tree English
Old wood Previously wooded land English
Orchard Orchard English
Orles Land on which alders grow Welsh
Ox Oxen English
Pandy Fulling mill Welsh
Park Parkland English
Pasture Pasture English
Patch Small piece of land English
Peck ? ?
Pen End or top (W), or small enclosure (Eng) ?
Penhead end or top head Hybrid
Perkins ? ?
Perrott/ Perrow Local personal name Welsh
Perthy Hedge or bush Welsh
Pic ? ?
Piece Piece of land English
Pikey Pointed piece of land English
Pin Fir or pine, or pin, or pen Welsh
Pistil/ pisty/ pestae From pistyll = spout or cataract Welsh
Pleck/ plock Small piece of land English
Plot Small piece of ground or allotment English
Pool/ poole Pool or pond English
Poorcas/ porkin/ pulcas/ puscas/ porking/ poorcat Possibly from Por = pasture or grass + cae = field, or poor field? Most tend to be large enclosures of pasture on higher slope Welsh
Porth Gate Welsh
Put ? ?
Pwillen Possibly from pwll = pit, pool or pond Welsh
Queer Unusual? English
Restree Possibly from rhes = line or row Welsh
Rick/ rickhole/ ricket Hay rick English
Rider Possibly from rhyd = ford Welsh
Rocks hill Rocky land English
Ropin/ ropine ? ?
Rotten Poor quality English
Salpot Possibly from sallow = willow + pot = deep hole, land covered in holes English
Serth Steep Welsh
Sheckwell ? English
Sheep walk Upland sheep pasture English
Shop Shed English
Skybor/ scybor From ysgabor = barn Welsh
Slang Narrow strip of land English
Slip/ slipper Small strip of land English
Slottick Possibly from silotog = productive, abounding in seedlings ?
Sole figin ? ?
Soundr ? ?
Square Square English
Tilley Possibly from tillage = land enclosed for arable use; Or corruption of name of nearby farmstead of Tylau ?
Tir/ tyr Land Welsh
Troustree ? + possibly tri = three ?
Tump/ tumpy Hillock English
Ty House Welsh
Tyle Slope, hill Welsh
Tyning Land enclosed with a fence English
Ucha/ ushaf Upper Welsh
War Possibly from gwar = above Welsh
Warheal Possibly from gwar = above + heol = road Welsh
Warren Rabbit warren English
Well Land by or with a well or spring English
Wern Alder trees or watery Welsh
Whiels Possibly from heol = road Welsh?
Whirrell  From chwarel = quarry Welsh
Weir Land by a weir English
Will Possibly from heol = road Welsh?
Worlod/ wolod/ walod/ gwrlod Meadow Welsh
Yew Tree Yew tree English
Ynis/ ynys Water meadow, rising ground or island Welsh




Friday, 22 April 2016

Ultima Thule


'Concerning Thule, our historical information is still more uncertain, on account of its outside position; for Thule, of all the countries that are named, is set farthest north. 'Strabo, Geography, 1st century BC

The term 'Ultima Thule' was used in Classical and medieval geographical writing to describe mysterious places in the distant north beyond the known world of trade, empire and civilisation. Since the first use of the concept by the Greek explorer Pytheas debate has raged as to whether the phrase refers to Norway, Greenland, Iceland, Orkney, Shetland or, perhaps more likely, an amalgam of all dimly known northern climes. Having just spent several days in the unambiguously epic and often thrillingly peculiar landscapes of Iceland I can only back its candidature to be the very embodiment of Ultima Thule.


'It is no use trying to describe it, but it was quite up to my utmost expectations as to strangeness: it is just like nothing else in the world.' 
William Morris on his first visit to Iceland (1877)
As with Morris, my words can only pale in the face of a first sighting of Aurora Borealis, the Northern Lights, and the other wonders of the trip, so here is a visual montage of 'the place where the sun goes to rest.' (Geminus of Rhodes, 1st century BC).




'Thule; an island in the Ocean between the northern and western zone, beyond Britain, near Orkney and Ireland; in this Thule, when the sun is in Cancer, it is said that there are perpetual days without nights.'
Servius, 4th century AD






'By a route obscure and lonely,
Haunted by ill angels only,
Where an Eidolon, named Night,
On a black throne reigns upright.
I have reached these lands but newly
From an ultimate dim Thule –
From a wild weird clime, that lieth, sublime,
Out of Space – out of Time.'
Extract from Edgar Allan Poe's poem Dream-Land (1844)
















'(Auden) said that Iceland was like the sun that had set, (but) you could see the sunshine on the mountains: Iceland followed him like that - the colours of the setting sun on the mountains. He said that he was not always thinking about Iceland ... that he was never not thinking about Iceland.'
Simon Armitage and Glyn Maxwell, Moon Country (1996)







Friday, 11 March 2016

Landscapism dispatch #1

Bloody hell! A PhD takes over your life. Expansive blog posts unrelated to my PhD research are probably going to be few and far between over these three years. So landscapism dispatches will have to be brief; no bad thing. 


A good number of interesting things have been kindly brought to my attention or stumbled across already this year, and here is something of a cartulary (damn, can't shake off my research head!).  



As soon as I finish reading Rob Cowan's excellent Common Ground (a distinctive voice in the somewhat crowded territory of 'New Nature' writing) I hope to plunge into From Hill to Sea; the work of the ever-engaging Fife Psychogeography Collective in book form. Those Fifers know how to find the strange brew that soaks the hills and flows to the sea in their kingdom above the bridge.

"And I rose up, and knew that I was tired, and continued my journey”. Artist and composer Martin A. Smith has produced a new film, Secretly sharing the landscape with the livingexploring part of the Icknield Way in Buckinghamshire, following in the fecund footsteps of Edward Thomas:



You can find out more about Martin's work here.

The daily on-line posts from A Year in the Country provided twelve months of eclectic imaginings on the unsettled bucolic a while back and in April comes an album of sonic accompaniment featuring a goodly mix of collaborators, The Quietened Village: "a study of and reflection on the lost, disappeared and once were homes and hamlets that have wandered off the maps or that have become shells of their former lives and times".



Further audio reports from the landscape edge come in the shape of Justin Hopper's poetry and sound project, I Made Some Low Enquiries, featuring none-other than folk legend Shirley Collins and available from the English Heretic website.



Radio has become my day-time company in recent months, through the fountainhead that is BBC iPlayer. Melvyn Bragg curating In Our Time, 6 Music's Freak Zone, Radio 4's aurally-charged production of The Stone Tape, Late Junction eclectica on Radio 3, The Children of Witchwood and old Sherlock Holmes episodes on Radio 4 Extra; the list goes on. Current enjoyment is provided by music journalist Laura Barton's exploration of the relationship between landscape and music across the British Isles in her Radio 4 documentary series, as described further here.



The music of the crags and cliffs of Red Daren and Black Daren is a song of stone. Here in the Olchon Valley is found the geological rim of England as western Herefordshire sheds its Anglo-Saxon facade and bleeds into the Black Mountains of Wales. A recent Sunday morning jaunt amongst the Old Red Sandstone passed through this hushed borderland, climbing to the Hatterall ridge; Hatterall, perhaps, bastardised from At y Heu: 'towards the sun'.   





And back home the summit of my books to read mountain has moved further out of reach with the addition of Time's Anvil: England, Archaeology and the Imagination by Richard Morris, Bloody Old Britain by Kitty Hauser, Anna Pavord's Landskipping, John Lewis-Stempel's Meadowland and The Buried Giant by Kazuo Ishiguro.

Right, back on the Monk's Trod now for me.